Exploring Yanagawa: Kyushu’s Venice

Yanagawa is arguably considered “Japan’s Venice.” Sure, others will tell you different. For example: Kyoto’s Ine no Funaya, Uchikawa, Kurashiki, and of course, Yanagawa. Regardless of which town you consider “Japan’s Venice,” there’s no doubt that Yanagawa, located in Fukuoka Prefecture, is Kyushu’s Venice.

Yanagawa is among Fukuoka Prefecture’s most historic towns. The sleepy town is home to multiple temples and shrines, yet is most famous for its network of shallow canals and “canal punting.” In Yanagawa, gondoliers navigate their boats by “punting” with a long bamboo stick, traversing low bridges and narrow keys. In addition, Yoko Ono’s grandparents had a home in Yanagawa, so be sure to ask your guide “尾の横のうちはどこですか。” (Where is Yoko Ono’s house?)

I had the privilege of visiting Yanagawa with a group of friends on Christmas Day 2021. Here’s a summary of what we did.

Yanagawa’s Takahakate Park

Upon disembarking at Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station, we quickly got some breakfast at the station’s Lawson. From there, we walked towards Takahakate Park, near the main station for our Canal Punt for today. While we were waiting, we walked around Takahakate Park and visited three of the six temples and shrines, all located next to each other, at the park.

My friends and I paid our respects to the kami enshrined at these facilities, and received fortunes. According to my friend who speaks N1 Japanese, we received good luck that day.

After meeting with a local guide, we located a pine tree famous for its curly shape. The tree swooped low to the ground, creating a loop-like shape when viewed from a certain angle. Of course we posed and took pictures; the tree itself is a tourist attraction.

We then prepared to board one of Yanagawa’s “donkobune,” or “river boat” for a punt across the kilometers of canals, originally built for irrigation purposes nearly 500 years ago.

Canal Punting in Yanagawa

Yanagawa is a popular domestic tourist spot for its canals. According to our pamphlet, the gondola operators offer different amenities depending on the season. For example, from December to February of every year, each boat is equipped with a heated kotatsu! The kotatsu kept us warm during our hour-long tour of the city.

We sailed through the moat of Yanagawa Castle, a sail-thru restaurant where guests can order treats from the boat, and even the former home of Yoko Ono’s grandparents. For those not familiar, Yoko Ono is the ex-wife of former Beatle John Lennon. To some Beatles fans, she is a controversial figure, often credited with breaking up the 60s super group. Yet, in this instance, Yoko Ono acts as a cultural bridge between Japan and the Western World.

What is a Kotatsu?

A kotatsu is a table equipped with a heating element and a thick blanket. Many Japanese homes have one to combat the frigid Japanese winters and keep warm. Kotatsu are so popular among Westerners, that some people export them to their home countries and modify them to work on their power grids.

If this sounds scary, fear not. A kotatsu won’t burn your house down, or in our case, our river boat.

Cultural Exchange: The Sugegasa, or Asian Conical Hat

Our canal punting company offered their guests to rent Sugegasa for 100 yen, or about 85 cents. These conical straw hats provided some protection from the bright sun. These hats are traditionally worn by farmers in East and Southeast Asia, and are often associated with rice farming in particular. Within Japan, such hats were often worn by Buddhist Monks and Samuri, among many historical figures.

Some may argue that wearing such hat is cultural appropriation. I disagree. The tour company operates in part to share Japanese culture with visitors and guests. By offering the hats to tourists, they are exchanging their culture with those visiting Japan.

Yanagawa Unagi

After disembarking near Kawashitari on the West side of town, we visited Unagiya Honten, one of many restaurants specializing in Unagi, or grilled eel. Yanagawa is famous for its unagi, often served with rice and a side of egg. We chose this restaurant because we saw it during our canal ride. We were left satisfied with our savory, tender, and somewhat oily delicacy. When in Yanagawa, you must try the Unagi. If you’ve ever had a bad experience with Unagi, or Eel, before, give it another try here.

Walking Around Yanagawa

Upon finishing lunch, we walked along the canal network of the city, visiting local temples and shrines as they prepared for the upcoming New Year’s celebrations. One temple in particular had a large tiger effigy at its gates. As we headed towards Nishitetsu Yanagawa Station to return to Fukuoka, we made a brief stop at the sail-through restaurant. While there, I ordered some yakimochi, or fried mochi. My friends liked it, although I personally wasn’t a fan. I think you should give it a try as it’s a unique take on the Japanese sweet.

I was amazed at just how compact Yanagawa is. Yanagawa is one of the most walkable cities I’ve been to, and I’ve walked around many Japanese cities and towns. Heck, I thought Yanagawa was more walkable than Rouen, France, another city which holds a special place in my heart.

I came to appreciate the serene beauty of this smaller Japanese town. Much like Kawazu in Shizuoka Prefecture, there aren’t many towns like this one. I envisioned myself retiring in Yanagawa, waving hello to many tourists enjoying canal punts while relaxing on my balcony. I’m glad I got to visit, and I hope to return during cherry blossom season in a few months.