Experiencing Japanese Culture: My Trip to the Hotel Green Plaza Hakuba/Cortina Ski Resort

The weekend of February 9-12, 2018 was an undergraduate holiday at TUJ, meaning we had no school on Friday or Monday. While I am not sure why they decided to take Friday off, the reason we have no school on February 12 is because that’s Japan’s National Founding Day, or basically their Fourth of July. From February 9-10, 2018, I went on a school trip to go skiing at the Hotel Green Plaza in Hakuba, Nagano Prefecture, Japan. On this short trip, I got to experience traditional Japanese culture, as well as of course, go skiing on some of the finest snow I have ever skied on. Since anyone can go skiing almost anywhere in the world, I’m going to focus on two unique aspects of Japanese culture: The Onsen and The Yakata.

February 9 was both the coldest day I have ever experienced in my life (11ºF [-12ºC] at its coldest, 32ºF [0ºC] at its warmest) and one of the most interesting. After an overnight bus ride from TUJ campus to the Hotel, I spent most of the day on the slopes skiing. I was surprised by how many English-speaking tourists there that day, particularly tourists from Australia and New Zealand. While the skiing was very fun and the views of the Japanese Alps left me wondering if I was in Switzerland, it was the hotel experience that most intrigued me. This hotel has an Onsen, or a Japanese hot spring/public bath. Onsen are public bathhouses featuring naturally warm water due to Japan’s volcanic activity. Most onsen change their water every day and clean the baths to ensure sanitary conditions while some modern onsen chlorinate their water to reduce infection. Bathers must thoroughly wash themselves with soap before (and I believe after) entering the onsen (which was something I didn’t realize the first time) in order to reduce infection and keep the water clean. One thing about onsen is that one bathes in the nude, something generally considered taboo back in the States. I myself was hesitant about bathing in an Onsen. TUJ offered a trip to the Gero Onsen near Nagoya earlier this semester but I chose not to sign up. On this trip, thanks in part to my roommates, I decided to suck it up and try the hotel’s onsen. I felt awkward at first, but over time I felt more acquainted. I felt a deeper sense of connection with both my temporary roommates and with the Japanese people; I mean it doesn’t get more open than multiple people bathing in a public bath in the nude. I was also fascinated by how normal this was for the Japanese. There was a mix of young and old men, as well as children, all nude and all acting normally. Of course, for the guys, it’s polite to use a small towel to cover up your privates. For the ladies, I don’t know since onsen are segregated by gender, although I have heard that the ladies are supposed to cover their breasts.

Other notes about the Onsen: Many don’t allow people with tattoos to enter (although this is slowly changing) due to their association with the Yakuza, and you are supposed to bring (or rent) two towels, one big one to dry off with and one small one you bring with you into the onsen (but don’t get it wet, that’s considered rude).

After the Onsen, I dressed in a Yakata, or a lightweight kimono usually made of cotton, along with a decorative triangular-shaped piece as I was getting ready for that night’s dinner. My yakata was so freaking comfortable! It was light yet it kept me warm and cozy; so much so that I actually fell asleep in it. I wanted to keep my yakata but I decided not to. The yakata we were all provided were meant to be worn as casual wear in the hotel. I wore mine to the onsen originally and I was going to wear it to dinner. You are supposed to wear a yakata much like a bathrobe; no clothes underneath although underwear is optional. In the end, I decided to go to dinner in my more Western clothes since it felt weird to me, but after seeing so many guests wearing their yakata to dinner, I regretted my choice.

The onsen and the yakata are two distinct items of Japanese culture. Along with tasting the best sushi I have ever had at dinner, I was honored to have experienced more authentic Japanese culture. The culture was so authentic at the hotel that they didn’t even have ATM machines or credit card readers. I actually ran out of cash which made things difficult the next day. Luckily, dinner was free though so that was a plus.

My trip to Japan is one of taking risks. Since I have been in Japan, I have learned more about myself and that I can handle whatever challenges face me. For me, taking a dip in an onsen was the pinnacle of trying something I would have never done. When in Japan, do as the Japanese do. Also, carry lots of cash with you at all times!

Here are some pictures from my short trip

Grammar Note: The Japanese Language doesn’t have plurals. That’s why I never wrote “onsens” and “yakatas,” the plural is implied in the context.